History Lessons

In our two years of travel we have stopped at many museums, both local and large, to educate ourselves on the history of the areas we travel through. It just gives us a thrill every time we can say, “Wow, I didn’t know that!” Not to say we remember everything we learned, just that the fun was in the learning.

We were taught the native history in the buffalo country of North Dakota, and then the native history in the rice terraces of Banaue. They are remarkably similar in that the native survival techniques of both were superseded by the “learned” cultures of the conquerors. In the Philippines, we were lucky enough to enjoy the native dances that are still enjoyed at gatherings today.

However the history of the area of Bataan in the Philippines is very disturbing. It is located in a strategic area for the protection of Manila, being across Manila Bay from the city. Thus it has seen many hard fought battles, the worst being during World War II. There is a shrine on the top of a hill commemorating the many fallen in these battles and describing the events that directly affected the outcome. Tour buses take school children and tour vans take adults to this shrine on a frequent basis. We however, took a tricycle. And the only one we could get had a small motor that couldn’t quite make it to the top of the road with our weight in the passenger cab. No matter. We walked the last couple of hundred meters to the gate and then the many steps up to the shrine.  We needed the exercise. The shrine has two parts: a memorial hall with descriptions of the battles and the battalions that participated, and then further up, a 400 foot tall cement cross at the very tip of the hill. The cross is large enough to hold an elevator that takes you up to the arms of the cross where there is a viewing area. And it is imposing enough to be seen for many miles around the countryside.

 A tiny island in the mouth of the bay, Corrigedor Island, was a major battlefront. After the Japanese overran Bataan, the defenders retreated to this island for their last stand. Even with help from American forces, the island was devastated. The government has now repaired the roads and put up shelters, shops and a museum for the tourists, but has left the bombed ruins on the island as a testament to the horrors of war.

After defeating the island, the Japanese then took the remaining survivors of the defending forces and, after amassing them on the shores of Bataan, made them walk the 128 kms to their POW camp. This has become known as the Death March, as many of the soldiers in the march did not survive the walk. There are white cement posts along the entire route, kilometer by kilometer, reminding all of the tragedy.

On the other side of Bataan from the bay, there is history preserved that has a less tragic overtone.  A developer with knowledge and finances has been buying up the oldest houses in all of the country and relocating them on his seaside property. In so doing, he has preserved heritage homes that would have otherwise been lost to rebuilding.  He has researched the history of the buildings and restored them, only improving the interiors and amenities to make them high end resort accommodations.   Employees dress in period costume and give walking tours of the heritage town, telling the story of each home in turn, as well as the plans for further development. There are statues throughout the property, folk music in the square, and cobblestone pavement. 

A delightful part of history to relive.